WOOLEN TWISTS AND JEWELRY

 

I met Rose Morand at parisian fine arts and crafts biennale in 2016 and have been longing to talk about her work since then.

An orange and turquoise necklace by Rhizom
“Totem” necklace. Unique piece. Photo: Ludmila Armandin. Style: Marine Armandin. Set design: Pauline Androlus. Make up: Mia Jin. Hair: Yui Hirohata. Model: Fanny Claude

 

Rose studied textile design in Paris for two years at the National School of Applied Arts and Crafts (ENSAAMA Olivier de Serres) and textile design at the School of Applied Arts and Textile in Roubaix (Esaat) for two more years.

Right after her graduation, she left for a year in Madagascar where she worked as a textile designer specialized in embroidery and lace finishing for fashion houses. She brought her eye, researched the most relevant materials, created prototypes and accompanied the production teams.
She then returned to France and joined Kenzo, working on embroidery and preparation of collections.

Alongside managing her professional life and blogging about trends, Rose continues her research on fiber materials, more precisely mesh. She uses a “french-knitter” (no kidding) also called a tubular or spool knitter or loom. This leads to long chains of “french-knitted” yarn which she twists, curves, assembles, tangles and ties together … against (and with) the constraints imposed by the raw  materials (wool or cotton) and transformed into knitted tubes. She imagines large labyrinthine and open-work pieces. From here dwells the desire of creating jewelry. Jewelry that turns into real adornments.

Knitted plastron from chest to shoulders by Rhizom.
Necklesses and ornamental jewelry by Rhizom. Photo credit: Rhizom Studio

 

In 2013 she creates Rhizom, a design studio and a brand that brings her creations to the public. Necklaces, breastplates, some bracelets… These adornments are both imposing and aerial. They are reminiscent of ceremonial adornments of lost civilizations, or of the Masai jewelry, while being delicate, urban and contemporary enough to be worn daily.

The convolutions, the curves, the rework brought to the tubes, embellished with embroidery, pearls or metal are very unexpected. The colors are contrasted ​​and strong. The shapes and volumes escape from traditional necklaces to adorn the chest, back or shoulders, thus blurring the lines between jewelry, clothing, accessorize.

Knitted necklace that also accessorizes the upper back.
“Recto-verso” necklace. Photo credit: Rhizom Studio.

 

I remember being surprised while feeling Rhizom’s pieces and running my fingers around them : these adornments, so abundant with accumulated materials and colors are surprisingly soft and light.

They are also very poetic: one can follow the path of a tube, imagine a labyrinth or a dream journey … They also have a very organic aspect (a rhizome is a stem of a plant that sends out roots and shoots in al directions) and even an anatomical one, that adds to their singularity.

Yellow knitted necklace by Rhizom Studio
“Onja” necklace, yellow. Photo credit: Rhizom Studio

 

I am delighted to finally have this online space where I can present creative people and their projects. Here is a young designer who focuses on an ancient technique (there is a bit of a controversy about the origins of this technique : found in Egyptian tombs, among Vikings and all through the Middle-Ages…) mixed with her contemporary creative mind, to imagine hybrid objects, between jewelry and clothing, accessories and art, relying on the very constraints of the material.

Do not hesitate to follow Rhizom on the social networks and to check out her shop … a real treat for the eyes!

To discover more, visit the Rhizom online shop.

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